Montevideo's magic: history, stately buildings and many free attractions

This group of students came to our aid when they saw us looking at our city map.
This friendliness is typical of Uruguayan people, we found in our 10 days there.

Montevideo is often overlooked in favor of larger, more visited South American cities.
 It has much to offer, though, including  stately architecture. 

CAPITAL CITY CHARMS WITH POLITE PEOPLE, HISTORY, WIDE STREETS, AND RELAXED  QUALITY PARTLY DUE TO A POPULAR DRINK

Top photo:Above, tasty chicken salad
garnished with apples, walnuts, sesame seeds.

 
STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

THE MOST appealing aspect of Montevideo is the friendly, welcoming feeling one gets while strolling its streets, visiting a museum or enjoying a beverage.
Perhaps it's the yerba mate, an herbal tea that nearly every Uruguayan drinks.

Our splendid tour guide Pablo enjoys
his mate during a break on a day trip.

It's their equivalent of coffee, and imbibers believe it is both calming and "calmly energizing," as our guide Pablo told us. Mate contains adaptogens that help keep cortisol
levels from rising too high. Its millions of consumers also believe it provides a gradual, smooth energy boost along with vitamins, minerals, and superfoods to encourage relaxation and immunity.

Mate thermoses and cups adorn many shop
windows.  The national drink is much enjoyed.

  SO WE settled into the calming vibe in this lovely city, settled in  1724 by a Spanish soldier. As the capital of this small South American country, most Americans pass it by, in favor of the larger and glitzier Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro.

Happily, we spent eight pleasant days in Montevideo, with side trips to nearby villages, and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Montevideo's laid-back atmosphere includes a lively café culture, and well-preserved old town in the Ciudad Vieja. We enjoyed strolling this area, which is receiving a wave of immigration primarily from its neighbors—Argentina and Brazil—but also from Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Venezuela. Our guide, in fact, was born in Cuba and came here with his Cuban wife and his mother-in-law.  All are assimilated in Montevideo and love it.

Montevideo's streets are neat and welcoming,
with pretty shops, art displays and usually few
crowds.  We were up early for a peaceful walk.

Carrasco International Airport is a pleasant contrast with other more hectic South American ones.
Its family-friendly nature is typical of Uruguay. Free strollers were available for use within the airport. Family bathrooms and baby rooms for feeding and changing are plentiful and easy to access.

Most everyone speaks English and young people are polite and friendly. We encountered a group of students who recommended a tango show and fun inexpensive restaurant.
Museums and cultural centers/events offer free admission for kids under 12 and reasonable student rates. 

 

Montevideo's imposing equine statue features the
national hero of Uruguay, José Gervasio Artigas
(1764–1850), who led the fight for independence
 against Brazil and Portugal. 

Life in Montevideo revolves around cafes, many spread out around the Plaza de la Independencia, once home to a Spanish citadel. This plaza leads to Ciudad Vieja with beautiful art deco buildings, colonial homes and landmarks including the towering Palacio Salvo and neoclassical performance hall Solís Theatre. Mercado del Puerto has trendy steakhouses, in a gentrified area of the old port market which celebrates its history.

Shady, welcoming cafes, clean streets
and attractive architecture mark 
Montevideo, with many free offerings. 

Montevideo and its rich cultural life offer the pleasures of a vibrant city such as Miami or Malaga. Both south Florida and the Costa del Sol came to mind during our time in Montevideo, which shares the same rich cultural and ethnic background as Miami in the U.S. and Malaga in Spain.

More info: Dream Tour Uruguay and guide Pablo are highly recommended. Tours of Montevideo, Punta del Este and Colonia are all offered by Dream Tour Uruguay.

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie"
Meyers enjoy a day in Colonia, with its
historic architecture and charming shops.

UP NEXT: While we're in Uruguay, we visit two very different cities: Punta del Este, with its lively beach culture, and the historic town of Colonia. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 on the Río de la Plata, and the city quickly came to be of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. We found Uruguay welcoming and clean, friendly and reasonably priced.  Its stable economy and kind and gracious people are appealing reasons to plan a trip.  It's also very family friendly. Children are welcome, and often invited free to museums and other venues. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, food, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com