Tirano's treasures: a charming inn, gourmet restaurant, mountain views

The view from our room at the lovely Ostello del Castello, where we spent a few peaceful nights before
boarding Bernina Express for a dazzling journey from Tirano, Italy, to St. Moritz, Switzerland.

HISTORIC, PICTURESQUE TIRANO HAS MUCH TO OFFER: A CHARMING HOTEL, FINE DINING, WINERIES, MUSEUMS, GORGEOUS VIEWS

The charms of hotel Ostello del Castello include great views
 of the mountains and a decor reflecting both new and old.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

YOU WON'T find a more amiable and accommodating host than Andrea, owner of Ostello del Castello, a lovely little inn in Tirano, Italy.

And you won't find a more picturesque and friendly village with artful shops, delightful eateries, a knock-out mountain setting and easy access to the Bernina Express rail adventure.

Bruce Keller, Andrea Gusmeroli and Christene
"Cookie" Meyers at Andrea's hotel in Tirano. 

The host's helpful and welcoming nature is what we remember most about our visit to his 200-year old converted farm house.

"Do you own it?" I asked, over a generous breakfast of fruits, cereals, pastries, meats and cheeses. "Well, yes, I do -- with the help of the bank," he winked.

About to enjoy a leisurely meal at the artful Restaurant
Paravicinni, with engaging artwork and fine service.

ANDREA Gusmeroli and his lovely hotel and staff enhanced our stay at every turn. The inn's trademark is old world hospitality extended by  genuinely helpful and pleasant people.  We noticed this from the first afternoon when his assistant arranged a taxi. It was waiting for us at the train station when we arrived after a long day of travel. We'd begun our day in Rome, on to Milan then a train change and at last Tirano. 

Delicious salads include homemade
wheat and sourdough rolls, with
tasty farm fresh vegetables and herbs.

So we were tired and didn't relish walking the half-mile on cobblestone streets with four bags from a two-month trip, and a full backpack to boot. After we rested, we asked for pointers on a nearby restaurant. We were steered down the easy hill past neatly kept homes bedecked with flowers and sporting vegetable gardens. Our destination was the fabulous Restaurant Paravicini. Both a local favorite and popular with tourists, the eatery offers tasty regional favorites. We tried excellent spaghetti with shrimp, and a rare steak and potatoes. Our pretty salad came with fresh herbs from the garden and a helpful staff served a crisp local white wine and Keller's faux beer. He pronounced it delicious, an Italian choice, Peroni, which became a favorite.

The classy eatery features  cave-like rooms with vaulted ceilings and a handsome, well stocked wine-cellar.  Local meats are expertly prepared with, of course, delectable pasta.

WE'D WALKED up the inn's patio in late afternoon so didn't notice the tiny lights. Later, at dusk, they twinkled to welcome us back. Then, with a view of  mountains in moonlight, we settled into a comfy bed with a down comforter for one of the best night's sleep of our long trip. 

Tirano is in the province of Sondrio, Lombardy, population 9,053, adjacent to the Switzerland-Italy border. The river Adda flows through town center. Here are a few pointers to enhance your visit: 

* Piazza Cavour. It's a charming square  in the heart of Tirano. Cafes, shops, people watching. Fun

 place. 

Enjoying the streets of Tirano, Italy, are Bruce Keller and
Christene "Cookie" Meyers, during time in northern Italy.

* The Church of Madonna di Tirano. This Roman Catholic church dates to the 1500s with a bell tower and ornate sculpture-lined interior. We thought it an enchanting combination of Tuscan, Lombard and Venetian architecture.

* The Tirano Railway Station is where you'll go to board the Bernina Express or "Trenino del Bernina." The flashy red train connects Tirano with St. Moritz, climbing the spectacular Alps without the use of the rack. It is an  engineering jewel of the Rhaetian Railway and in 2008 became part of the UNESCO Heritage. 
For a charming B&B experience with an amiable host and spectacular mountain views: www.ostellotirano.it/booking

To book the Bernina Express: www.berninarailway.com

Yevgeny Sudbin and his gifted children played
piano duets as well as a violin piece Sunday at
Tippet Rise, where the 2024 season is underway.

UP NEXT: Montana's Tippet Rise Art Center opened the 2024 season with a flourish.  Three standing room only concerts featured world renowned musicians and an internationally known mezzo-soprano, plus a pop up family concert  delighted hikers, picnickers and others who happened to be at the arts center. More on this unique art-music-nature venue which is rapidly being included on thousands of peoples' bucket lists. It's no wonder performers from the world's great concert halls love the tranquility and beauty of Montana after the crush and pressure of concertizing and the rigors of hectic scheduling and constant travel. Take time to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on art, nature, music, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com