Thursday, November 28, 2024

Give thanks, share and kick your meal up a notch with something new

Jambalaya is a tradition for Thanksgiving in many southern homes. Cajun appetizers also make
Thanksgiving special. We'll share an easy Cajun pecan recipe in the feature story below.

WHETHER DINING AT HOME OR AWAY THANKSGIVING WEEK, TRY A NEW TWIST 


A Turkish delight: appetizers which we followed with a lovely
salad, and a custard dessert one recent Thanksgiving.
STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

DINING OUT is one of life's sublime pleasures, and Thanksgiving is a time to enjoy and give thanks not only for family, friends, culinary treats and traditions, but for our bounty.

Remember to be generous, to count your blessings.  We give thanks daily for the opportunity to travel, to still have the dexterity, means and intelligence to book a trip.  We are tremendously grateful for, as my grandmother Olive called it, our "mobility and marbles." May these two treasured commodities remain in our possession for many more years.

Portuguese bean soup made a lovely Thanksgiving meal
one year in Porto, which has become a favorite city.


If we're home, we like to invite a single person or new neighbor over to share the meal. A widowed friend works in a soup kitchen on Thanksgiving and says it makes her feel connected, helpful and less lonely. We have fun making  my Gran's turkey wiggle with the leftovers. Try her recipe, click the link below:

TURKEY WIGGLE RECIPE

WHATEVER YOU DO, take time t
Cookie admires an appetizer plate, served
stylishly on a Thanksgiving holiday in Barcelona.
o be thankful for the opportunity to have sufficient means to share. And if you're feeling at a low ebb, consider doing something different to jump start your spirits.  We recommend Thanksgiving or any holiday on the road as a way of making new friends and memories. Even if "away" means an hour's drive to a cousin's or sibling's home.
WE'VE SPENT many Thanksgivings "elsewhere," enjoying the offerings of local eateries. If we're home in San Diego, and don't have an invitation or feel up to preparing a feast ourselves, we go out.
We spent one Thanksgiving in our San Diego base,
enjoying appetizers at a beachfront hotel.

 
We consider a favorite Greek restaurant, where we love the appetizer plate. 
Or change things up with jambalaya for Thanksgiving. Sushi or Korean barbecue?  Thai food, a lovely paella, Portuguese bean soup, or perhaps a tray of Turkish  appetizers? Our Jewish friends joke about their tradition of going out for Chinese food on  Christmas. Put your own spin on a holiday to keep it from becoming cliche.  Dare to stretch, think outside the box. Speaking of which, a friend in New York treats his housekeeper to bento box near Times Square on Thanksgiving. 
Sure, the classic dinner can't be beat. Those old-time favorites are time honored: turkey, gravy, stuffing, potatoes, green been casserole and too much pie.

Our friend, Jesus, born in Madrid, creates a
tasty paella for a memorable Thanksgiving feast. 
BUT WE suggest something new this year, perhaps a Cajun appetizer or  side dish to augment the menu.  It will add flair and zing to your Thanksgiving table. Serving foods from another culture and combining them with your own beloved  dishes will create a unique and memorable holiday feast while introducing new traditions.

 Remember to give thanks

  

Chilean sea bass and seasonal vegetables delighted us in a Barcelona restaurant. 
 With guitar music, the meal made  a colorful Thanksgiving Day treat that we fondly remember. 

EASY SPICED CAJUN PECANS
We tasted these Cajun pecans in New Orleans and got this
recipe from a friend. "Easy peasy," and a fun holiday treat.
 (The seasoning)

1 tablespoon chili powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 

(The pecans)
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (2 2/3 ounces) unsalted butter, melted
4 cups pecan halves
1 teaspoon seasoning blend
Cookie and Keller enjoy a Thanksgiving sunset
off the coast of Morocco on holiday in 2022.
Gather the ingredients.
Pre-heat oven to 325 F.
Combine spices in a small bowl to form your Cajun seasoning blend; mix thoroughly. Set aside.
In a large, shallow roasting pan, combine the melted butter and pecans.
Roast in the oven for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Sprinkle with remaining seasoning and toast for about 15 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. The nuts should be brown but not too dark. And feel free to use walnuts or cashews or even mixed nuts if you prefer or have on hand.

Dessert in a Paris cafe on
Thanksgiving last year.

A festive dessert for Keller
prepared in a country inn
in northern Spain.

HOLIDAY MEALS become special memories when you're dining with friends -- new or old. We've spent Thanksgiving on ships with people who become good friends. Since many cultures don't celebrate Thanksgiving when we do, it's important to maintain a "when in Rome" philosophy. Our advice is to loosen up, share the bounty, enjoy, stretch -- and try some Cajun pecans.


Family, friends, fitness thanks

Peking duck became our favorite feast on several Thanksgivings in Asia, here in Beijing.
 

 

A few places in the world offer an opportunity to swim
with dolphins, and on the Bay of Gibraltar, dolphin
watching has become nearly as popular as the monkeys.
COMING UP: We romp with  dolphins and visit a fascinating island in the Canaries made famous by a native son.  We travel to an unusual cave in Barbados and Keller takes Cookie on a sail boat ride to create the whitest knuckles she's ever experienced.  From peaceful and playful dolphins to the thrills of an old-fashioned, classic 12-meter America's Cup racing boat, we take you there. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, nature, performance, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

 

 

 

Thursday, November 21, 2024

San Juan seduces with nightlife, beaches, architecture, resorts, food

Old San Juan's colorful Boricua is a pleasant place to stop for lunch, stroll the shops, enjoy the beach.


BEACHES, CASINOS, DINING, HISTORICAL LANDMARKS, UPSCALE RESIDENTIAL AREAS, MUSEUMS, STREET FOOD, MUSIC: ALL IN A DAY IN LIVELY SAN JUAN

Stately homes and gentrified offices can be found in parts
of San Juan, which also has modern areas and many resorts.
STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER


SAN JUAN is a vibrant mix of stately buildings, towering trees, lively cafes, posh nightclubs, glitzy resorts, simple street food carts, plazas to people watch, museums, beach life and more. It's an enticing blend.

A major port and tourist destination on Puerto Rico's northern coast, it is separated from the rest of the island by picturesque San Juan Bay and Condado Lagoon. The city was 
Old San Juan offers a mix of stately architecture, welcoming
plazas with benches and shade trees, and sculpture parks.
founded in 1508 by that globe trotting Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León and is the oldest city under U.S. jurisdiction.
YOU'LL NEED a few days to get into the grove.  We suggest starting with a stroll or drive in El Viejo San Juan --  historic Old San Juan, which has several names, and is properly known as San Juan Antiguo. It is home to the San Juan National Historic Site, with buildings dating from the 16th century. You'll want to visit a pair of the Caribbean's most famous fortresses, the San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal. We enjoyed a climb on the old city walls for gorgeous views.
You'll see street art throughout the city.
If you like old stately churches, the Bautista Cathedral should be on your list of "must sees."  It houses the tomb of Ponce de Leon in a neighborhood of brightly colored houses which line inviting cobbled streets. We stopped in a shady plaza for a cocktail in a small, colorful bar.  After a rest in our hotel, we returned to Old San Juan to sample a couple of the city's renowned Caribbean fusion restaurants.
IN OLD TOWN, as the sun slides into the horizon,  you'll join older residents out for a stroll and young businessmen and women, relaxing after a day at the office. 
The Bacardi Rum Plant offers tours, tastings
and more at an impressive complex. 
San Juan is an intriguing blend of Caribbean island charm and city hustle, a fine place to experience Puerto Rican culture if you have time for only a day's visit.
The people are friendly, helpful and welcoming to the tourist. We've visited several times and enjoy exploring the vibrant and distinctive neighborhoods-- from the old Spanish colonial buildings to state of the art restaurants and the same major shopping outlets one finds in Paris, New York or Milan.

WE OPTED one day for a self-guided history lesson with a return visit to El Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a 16th-century citadel that’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We stopped at the Bacardi Rum 
The Caribe Hilton is a glitzy modern resort.
plant for a quick tour then headed for a cooling dip at Carolina Beach and Luquillo, which attract well heeled, deeply tanned Americans and Europeans. We had arranged to meet friends for a late dinner or we would have considered an after-dark kayak adventure through Bioluminescent Bay. Next time.

Locals perform in holiday garb
at the Bacardi Arts Festival
 coming soon to Old San Juan.
 SAN JUAN celebrates Christmas  beginning in early December.  Holiday programs are specially designed for children, and presented at the Dominica Convent, La Fortaleza and City Hall.  The Puerto Rico Symphony and National Folkloric Ballet of Puerto Rico give special performances and the San Juan Ballet Company performs Tchaikovsky's "Nutcracker Suite." 
Sports fans have plenty to watch, with Canadian teams playing with local teams throughout the island in the Puerto Rico Winter League. Boating enthusiasts enjoy the Puerto Rico International Offshore Cup in mid-December, and there are speedboat races with some of the best offshore teams competing.

San Juan is a major port and tourist destination, known
for its culture, nightlife, lively Old Town and beaches. 


FOR HOLIDAY shoppers, the Bacardi Arts Festival is held each year  the first two Sundays of December. It features more than 100 booths, crafts, rides, typical food and of course drinks of rum.  The festival happens at Bacardi's rum manufacturing plant, the world's largest. One doesn't have to go far to see Bacardi's influence.  The logos and bottles are everywhere.  Casa Bacardi offers tours and classes where you craft your own cocktails.  

OLD SAN JUAN lights up right after Thanksgiving, becoming a "White Christmas" with lights, decorations, holiday music and at booths in the windows and plazas. Tourists enjoy life-size nativity creches beginning on Thanksgiving weekend with the 

The influence of Bacardi is seen
throughout the island, here at a 
fast food stand with hot sauce
for roasted chicken on a paper plate
and hot sauce in the rum bottle.

 
 
lighting of a giant Christmas tree in Paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan.
For more information on hotels, tours and what's happening through the holidays: 
www.sanjuanpuertorico.com/visitors-information-tourism-offices/
bacardi.com for information on tours and tastings
From American favorites such as this rare steak and fresh
veggies, to exotic international fare, we sample Thanksgiving
on the road in next week's column.  Please tune in. 
















UP NEXT:  Thanksgiving is right around the corner, Nov. 28.  We've spent many Thanksgivings at various cities, villages and islands on the road, looking for fun and memorable ways to give thanks for a life of travel. We take readers to the Canary Islands, to Greece, Hong Kong and Barcelona for a look at specialty foods and taste treats for every budget.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com
  


Thursday, November 14, 2024

Puerto Rico's gorgeous El Yunque Forest: lush acres and a special frog


The El Yunque Rain Forest is one of the smallest, yet with a most diverse "repertoire" to behold.

"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived."
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers at El Yunque Visitor Center.
--Henry David Thoreau

WHERE NATURE IS REVERED: El YUNQUE


STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS
PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER



FORESTS HAVE
for centuries have captivated writers and poets.  The beauty,  enchantment, tranquility, and ecological richness of forests is a soothing balm for the traveler and local alike.
The unique coqui frog does not have webbed
feet, like most frogs. The males have an
enchanting song they sing all day.
Puerto Rico's famous El Yunque Rain Forest weaves lush foliage, unusual wildlife and a beautiful modern visitor's center  to create a symphony of nature. We admired waterfalls, beautiful flowers and century-old trees, with background music of a unique frog, taking a page from Thoreau's book, if only for a day. It was, in a word, captivating.
The showy heliconia, or lobster flower,
has a place of honor in the rain forest and
in the garden of El Yunque's visitor center.
We had a wonderful day in this magical place.

Various snails make their home
in the rain forest. Guides take
guests around for close-up views
.
THE 29,000 acre rain forest is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. Although it is one of the smallest national forests, it is also one of the most biologically diverse with a charming and unique frog, the coqui. The small tree frog is Puerto Rico's national animal and has a  charming if persistent  song.  Choruses of male coquis can be heard from dusk until dawn all over the island. The  coqui (pronounced ko-kee) is a small arboreal frog that can be brown, yellow, or green. Its scientific genus name --  try pronouncing eleutherodactylus -- means “free toes” because, unlike many frogs, the coqui doesn't have webbed feet.

 THE PARK's diverse ecosystem also boasts hundreds of unique plant species. These are described at the impressive El Portal de El Yunque, the main visitor and information center in the forest.
After the feeling of ancient wonders as we drove through the forest, a striking modern building comes into view to welcome visitors.
Bruce Keller admiring the fan ferns in the rain forest.
Our guide was proud of the trees whose roots
spread out hundreds of feet in the forest.
It features an elevated walkway through the tree tops, educational displays, a short wheelchair-friendly interpretive walking trail through the lower forest, a counter-service restaurant with tasty Puerto Rican sandwiches, some beautiful “selfie spots,” and a small gift shop.  We recommend a stop at this modern, interesting visitor center which besides its beauty and eye-catching architecture, gives an informative grounding for first-time visitors to El Yunque.
YOU'LL LEARN that the island's national flower is thespesia grandiflora, a hibiscus like beauty known as maga, also referred to as Maga Colorada ("Red Maga") and Puerto Rican hibiscus. It is a tree in the family Malvaceae of the rosids clade endemic to Puerto Rico, where its flower is celebrated as the national flower
of the archipelago. You'll also see gorgeous orchids, ginger plants, plumeria, anthurium, birds of paradise, and the showy heliconia, 
also known as lobster flower.
THE PEOPLE of Puerto Rico have long 
had a deep-rooted connection with its native flora.
 
From the indigenous Taíno people to the country's modern-day inhabitants, native plants have played a significant role in shaping Puerto Rican culture, traditions, and even spirituality. The unique relationship Puerto Ricans have with their native plants goes beyond aesthetics or ecological conservation.
A reverence for plants and growing things is an integral aspect of their identity. Medicinal plants and botanical remedies can be widely found in herbal displays and health stores. I replenished a few of my favorites.
A climb up Yokahu Tower is a fine way to view the rain forest from above.
 WHILE YOU are so near a spectacular place, don't miss the opportunity to stop at Yokahu Tower, and climb to the top.
It is right off the road, with a large parking lot.  The view is worth the climb. There are 96 steps to get to the top, but don't be intimidated. The steps are wide and you can go at your own pace to reach a marvelous view of the woods below.
We stopped several times to gaze out the windows and let others pass us.
The 69-foor concrete tower leads to an observation deck where you can literally see the forest for the trees. We had a remarkably clear day so we could even see the ocean beyond the tree-top canopy.

Cookie strolls one of the charming
walking paths at the El Yunque
Visitor Center, a lovely new space.
Constructed in 1963, the tower was built by forest supervisor and director of IITF, Frank H. Wadsworth. The tower is one of the two observation towers located in the park and sits at an elevation of 1,575 feet (480 m). The other tower in the El Yunque is the Mount Britton Tower, which friends say is equally engaging. We've vowed to see it on our next visit.
Many tour companies offer everything from food to nature excursions. We had good luck with Bespoke, which we booked when we reserved our week with Hilton. We used Bespoke for several tours. They have a relationship with Hilton, are pleasant and accommodating to work with in the booking process, and they picked us up at the hotel.

More information:   
 https://bespokeconcierge.com/
 www.viator.com
 www.fs.usda.gov/elyunque
www.discoverpuertorico.com
www.puertorico.com


San Juan offers a blend of old and new, relaxation and high
energy activity and touring, beaches, Old Town and a lovely bay.
UP NEXT:
From rain forest wonders, to seductive San Juan as we cap our Puerto Rico series. Fortresses, parks, sculpture, night life, street food, glitzy casinos, elegant resorts and a lively old town mix with live music and sunshine for an intoxicating time. Old San Juan offers history and beautiful architecture. The beaches are among the best in the Caribbean and there's a historic site in the fortresses. We also recommend a cruise along San Juan Bay. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly.


Thursday, November 7, 2024

Book a terrific time on a fun, educational tuk tuk tour in Lisbon



Enjoying a tuk tuk ride in Lisbon, from left, Bruce Keller, Jane Milder, driver Tomas Neves,
Christene "Cookie" Meyers, Rick Cosgriffe.  All aboard for a fun tour of this lovely Portuguese city.
 

TOURING LISBON BY TUK TUK YIELDS HISTORY, STORIES, FRESH AIR, FUN TIME

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

Lisbon's seven hills stretch from the city center to the sea,
with architecture typical of one of the world's great cities

WE LOVE LISBON! It's a favorite European city. So we wanted to show off "our town" to my brother Rick and his partner Jane during our two weeks together in southern Europe.

We did it in style, by tuk-tuk, that time honored transportation mode invented in 1879 and offering close-up views along with a few fun bumps.

LISBON OFFERS a wealth of architectural wonders and sea views making it a perfect city to explore by this three-wheeled cart, originally pulled by a person. My dad told lively stories of traveling by  rickshaw during his Army days in post WWII China.  He became fast friends with his trusty driver, as we have with Tomas Neves, who has shown us around his native city several times.

Miradouro das Portas do Sol is Lisbon's most
 photographed wiewpoint, a central location
near the cathedral and castle. Here Rick and  
Jane enjoy the view as we photograph them.

OUR FAVORITE Lisbon tuk-tuk is electric and driven -- not pulled -- by the amiable Tomas. It is  manufactured in an Amsterdam factory, where most licensed electric auto-tuk tuks or rickshaws originate. There are many types of tuk-tuk treks offered by Tomas and a host of other outfits. 

With over 500 tuk-tuks in Lisbon, tours range from gardens to restaurants, churches and museums.  Enthusiasts may concentrate on the oldest part of the city, the Alfama, or the narrow lanes of  residential districts. One may also "tuk-tuk" to Lisbon Castle and other popular destinations including Lisbon's famous Cathedral,  the Convento da Graça, the National Pantheon, Jardim São Pedro de Alcântara and the lively Thieves' Market. 
Tomas took us to the Graça Viewpoint at the Igreja, where Rick and Jane enjoyed the view and took selfies.

Most tuk tuks accommodate two to four people but some
such as this one are larger and can accommodate six or seven. 

OUR TWO-HOUR tour focused on Lisbon highlights, with Tomas providing entertaining commentary and stopping wherever we saw a photo opportunity. Because it's a city built on seven hills, its neighborhoods spread out from the city's historic center, blending into one another, to the Belém area near the water.
Some tours focus on history, others on architecture, others on food. So you can tailor your tour to your interests.
Lisbon's famous Cathedral, the Se de Lisboa,
is one of the stops driver Tomas always includes.
 

The tuk tuk is a wonderful way to savor a city. On an earlier tuk tuk tour, we sampled flavors of Portugal, with typical sweets and chocolate cups.

 Lisbon's sights are muted and lovely on a sunset cruise.
A tuk tuk tour then a relaxing cruise are a fine pair.

 

Typically, the two-hour tuk tuk tours focus on a specific area of the city, usually the Alfama and historic area.
A half-day tour allows one to see more of the city 
and get more detailed information about the main attractions.
A full-day tuk tuk tour will cover most of the major attractions, most likely taking passengers to Belem which is a bit outside the center.
The longer tours also give time to go inside museums, churches and gardens rather than just driving by, which we did this last time.
Lisbon is a city of majestic architecture and many fountains.

During themed tuk tuk tours, you’ll visit the main landmarks of the city but with a special focus. Passengers can choose from desserts to art to national heroes, museums and more.
WHETHER YOU see Lisbon by tuk tuk or walking tour, or taxi ride, you won't want to miss Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. As one of Lisbon’s must-see sights, it is Belem's undisputed architectural showstopper, an impressive honey-stone Manueline cloisters inside a UNESCO-listed 1495 monastery. On the nearby riverfront, another famous sight is the tower, or torre of Belem. It's an imposing fortress which epitomizes the excess of the Age of Discovery. We climbed to the top for splendid views over the Tagus River.  
Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers took
a tuk-tuk tour then hopped on a sunset cruise,
 framed by Lisbon architecture. 

OUR GUIDE Tomas knows where to find the best views for photos. He drove us to historic places, waiting patiently and helping us plan the next stop.  As one of the oldest cities in western Europe, there are more stops than possible in a single tour. So Tomas helps narrow the field, describing how his city has evolved through various occupations, wars and conquests, asking which aspects interest us most. 
HE EXPLAINED that the region was home to the Celts -- founded by well traveled Phoenicians around 1200 BC, making it 400 years older than Rome. These educated people established a settlement called Ulissipo, and became successful merchants, traders and colonizers until they were conquered by the Greeks and Carthaginians. 
TOMAS IS rightly proud of Lisbon.  As Portugal's thriving capital city it maintains its strategic geographical position at the mouth of the Tagus, the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula. After a tuk tuk ride, we recommend Tagus Cruises, which takes it name from the famous river.

Consider Lisbon by boat and tuk-tuk. For tuk-tuks, contact Tomas Neves: tomasneves95@gmail.com
TripAdvisor offers many tuk-tuk tours.
Or contact Lisbon's tourism office at: www.visitlisboa.com/
For a fun cruise:
taguscruises.com 


Puerto Rico's El Yunque Rain Forest is a tropical treat.

UP NEXT: We continue our look at Puerto Rico, where the government has stepped up its tourism in the last year and is spending millions to attract us. It's more than coffee, casinos, rum and beaches. After leaving Ponce recently, we headed into the El Yunque rain forest, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. Then, a visit to seductive San Juan, with adventure, night life, fine dining and an inviting old town and gorgeous hotels and resorts.