San Juan seduces with nightlife, beaches, architecture, resorts, food

Old San Juan's colorful Boricua is a pleasant place to stop for lunch, stroll the shops, enjoy the beach.

BEACHES, CASINOS, DINING, HISTORICAL LANDMARKS, UPSCALE RESIDENTIAL AREAS, MUSEUMS, STREET FOOD, MUSIC: ALL IN A DAY IN LIVELY SAN JUAN

Stately homes and gentrified offices can be found in parts
of San Juan, which also has modern areas and many resorts.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

SAN JUAN is a vibrant mix of stately buildings, towering trees, lively cafes, posh nightclubs, glitzy resorts, simple street food carts, plazas to people watch, museums, beach life and more. It's an enticing blend.

A major port and tourist destination on Puerto Rico's northern coast, it is separated from the rest of the island by picturesque San Juan Bay and Condado Lagoon. The city was 

Old San Juan offers a mix of stately architecture, welcoming
plazas with benches and shade trees, and sculpture parks.

founded in 1508 by that globe trotting Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León and is the oldest city under U.S. jurisdiction.

YOU'LL NEED a few days to get into the grove.  We suggest starting with a stroll or drive in El Viejo San Juan --  historic Old San Juan, which has several names, and is properly known as San Juan Antiguo. It is home to the San Juan National Historic Site, with buildings dating from the 16th century. You'll want to visit a pair of the Caribbean's most famous fortresses, the San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal. We enjoyed a climb on the old city walls for gorgeous views.

You'll see street art throughout the city.

If you like old stately churches, the Bautista Cathedral should be on your list of "must sees."  It houses the tomb of Ponce de Leon in a neighborhood of brightly colored houses which line inviting cobbled streets. We stopped in a shady plaza for a cocktail in a small, colorful bar.  After a rest in our hotel, we returned to Old San Juan to sample a couple of the city's renowned Caribbean fusion restaurants.

IN OLD TOWN, as the sun slides into the horizon,  you'll join older residents out for a stroll and young businessmen and women, relaxing after a day at the office. 

The Bacardi Rum Plant offers tours, tastings
and more at an impressive complex. 

San Juan is an intriguing blend of Caribbean island charm and city hustle, a fine place to experience Puerto Rican culture if you have time for only a day's visit.
The people are friendly, helpful and welcoming to the tourist. We've visited several times and enjoy exploring the vibrant and distinctive neighborhoods-- from the old Spanish colonial buildings to state of the art restaurants and the same major shopping outlets one finds in Paris, New York or Milan.

WE OPTED one day for a self-guided history lesson with a return visit to El Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a 16th-century citadel that’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We stopped at the Bacardi Rum 

The Caribe Hilton is a glitzy modern resort.

plant for a quick tour then headed for a cooling dip at Carolina Beach and Luquillo, which attract well heeled, deeply tanned Americans and Europeans. We had arranged to meet friends for a late dinner or we would have considered an after-dark kayak adventure through Bioluminescent Bay. Next time.

Locals perform in holiday garb
at the Bacardi Arts Festival
 coming soon to Old San Juan.

 SAN JUAN celebrates Christmas  beginning in early December.  Holiday programs are specially designed for children, and presented at the Dominica Convent, La Fortaleza and City Hall.  The Puerto Rico Symphony and National Folkloric Ballet of Puerto Rico give special performances and the San Juan Ballet Company performs Tchaikovsky's "Nutcracker Suite." 

Sports fans have plenty to watch, with Canadian teams playing with local teams throughout the island in the Puerto Rico Winter League. Boating enthusiasts enjoy the Puerto Rico International Offshore Cup in mid-December, and there are speedboat races with some of the best offshore teams competing.

San Juan is a major port and tourist destination, known
for its culture, nightlife, lively Old Town and beaches. 

FOR HOLIDAY shoppers, the Bacardi Arts Festival is held each year  the first two Sundays of December. It features more than 100 booths, crafts, rides, typical food and of course drinks of rum.  The festival happens at Bacardi's rum manufacturing plant, the world's largest. One doesn't have to go far to see Bacardi's influence.  The logos and bottles are everywhere.  Casa Bacardi offers tours and classes where you craft your own cocktails.  

OLD SAN JUAN lights up right after Thanksgiving, becoming a "White Christmas" with lights, decorations, holiday music and at booths in the windows and plazas. Tourists enjoy life-size nativity creches beginning on Thanksgiving weekend with the 

The influence of Bacardi is seen
throughout the island, here at a 
fast food stand with hot sauce
for roasted chicken on a paper plate
and hot sauce in the rum bottle.
 
 

lighting of a giant Christmas tree in Paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan.

For more information on hotels, tours and what's happening through the holidays: 

www.sanjuanpuertorico.com/visitors-information-tourism-offices/

bacardi.com for information on tours and tastings

From American favorites such as this rare steak and fresh
veggies, to exotic international fare, we sample Thanksgiving
on the road in next week's column.  Please tune in. 

UP NEXT:  Thanksgiving is right around the corner, Nov. 28.  We've spent many Thanksgivings at various cities, villages and islands on the road, looking for fun and memorable ways to give thanks for a life of travel. We take readers to the Canary Islands, to Greece, Hong Kong and Barcelona for a look at specialty foods and taste treats for every budget.  Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly at: www.whereiscookie.com