Whale watching bonanza as grays head south in record numbers

Seeing a whale's fluke, as we've done off the coast of San Diego, is a thrill to remember.

EPIC WHALE WATCHING SEASON CONTINUES IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

Christene "Cookie" Meyers and Bruce Keller
about to board City Cruises' Hornblower
Adventure for a thrilling whale watching time.

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

ONCE YOU'VE thrilled to the sight of a whale's fluke, or heard the whoosh of air from his blow hole, you're hooked. Seeing a mom and calf, even better!

You wait, you watch -- for a breach, a family, a fluke, the dive back into the ocean. Wow.  What a thrill. It brings tears, cheers and applause.

Welcome to the club. You're now a proud lifelong whale watcher. If you've always wanted to see whales, you have a fine opportunity now as 20,000 gray whales and hundreds of other species are passing by, delighting whale watchers from Ventura,  Oceanside and San Diego -- all along the coast as they head to the lagoons of the Baja. 

Seeing the "blow" remains a
thrill even after dozens of
sightings worldwide. 

This year is a banner year for watching these magnificent creatures. Besides bountiful numbers of grays, blues, humpbacks and minkes are also being spotted, along with thousands of playful
dolphins.

I was initiated years ago when as a newlywed, we watched whales off San Diego. It was a marvel and left an indelible imprint. 

A  grey whale "spy hops" off the coast of San Diego near
 La Jolla, bringing his body above water level, a sight
to behold. It's prime whale viewing season here now. 

TEN MINUTES from our home, we're in good company as more than 20,000 gray whales pass by enroute to warmer waters south.

Channel Islands prime whale viewing

 They make an impressive 10,000 mile round-trip journey from Alaska to the lagoons of Baja

San Diego Whale Watch has been tracking
whales for nearly 10 years, year round. Grays
are being seen now, and blues in the summer.

 California, where the females give birth to their calves. We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water -- on all of the several boats that offer a chance to commune with these magnificent creatures. City Cruises' Hornblower vessels offer longer tours, leaving from San Diego Bay with interesting commentary on the city's fascinating waterfront and
sea life before we hit the ocean. Naturalists from Balboa Park's famed Natural History Museum share whale lore and commentary illustrated with props. 

San Diego Whale Watch offers shorter, equally engaging trips from Mission Bay, closer to the water for a shorter trip. Check out the websites to determine the best fit for you and your group.
We've been binging on whales the past few weeks, letting the ocean calm, delight and encourage us. It's good therapy as we recover from our state's recent fires. 

 

Whales, dolphins delight in Channel Islands

Baleen is made from keratin, the same
material in our human fingernails.
For baleen whales it filters food.
 

Everyone wants to see "the blow," and we've been lucky this year to many times see what looks like mist. It's actually expelling warm air from its lungs into the cold atmosphere. The temperature change causes water vapor in the whale's breath to condense into water droplets, creating the misty spout that can be seen for miles. if you're quiet, you can really hear the sound of his blowhole -- a mighty whoosh of air expulsion. Thus the expression, "thar she blows."

Aboard San Diego's varied and equally engaging whale watching enterprises, one learns about the symbiotic relationship between the whales and their "hitchhikers" -- barnacles and lice, which use the whale for free transport while they hunt for food, picking off pieces of dead skin and flesh.

To see the rainbow like spray of air from the blow and hear them breathing is an absolute thrill.  With the help of knowledgeable volunteers, we admire samples of the baleen which acts as a food filter. Whales suck in water and scoop its contents, straining the protein rich fish and shrimp for nutrition.

We were enraptured to photograph a mother
and calf, a rare occurrence and happy moment.

WE'VE WATCHED whales cavort in the waters of Hawaii, Norway, Iceland and Mexico. I can honestly say our best whale watching is in southern California. 

To book City Experience Hornblower

To book San Diego Whale Watch 

Leigh Scarritt, left, and Rachael VanWormer play Hertha
Ayrton and Marie Curie, two brilliant scientists in the
male dominated early 20th Century.

BEST BET: Two gifted actors, a poetic script, beautiful lighting and talented direction make "The Half-Life of Marie Curie" a must-see.  This engaging performance is at New Village Arts Theatre in Carlsbad, north of San Diego. It's a play for people who love theater and the connection with character it offers.  This work charms and captivates.  The Lauren Gunderson play features two fine actors, Rachael VanWormer and Leigh Scarritt, playing physicist Marie Curie and electrical engineer Hertha Ayrton.   Theirs is is an inspired story, directed with imagination by Kym Pappas. As female scientists in the male dominated world of the early 20th Century, the two create a spellbinding chemistry. A deep bond develops as they deal with both personal problems and the sexism of the times.  Subtle lighting and dramatic scenic design are compelling and the two actors weave magic as the story unfolds with pathos, humor and searing detail. New Village Arts is a small, intimate venue. Don't miss it, through Feb. 23:  newvillagearts.org

Bo, the head of San Diego Zoo Safari Park's
lion pride, enjoys the company of three females.
 Here, he posed for us after a satisfying lunch.

COMING SOON: We're exploring beauty around us -- both elegant man made art and the exquisite work of nature. Next week, we feature Bo, the handsome head of the lion pride at San Diego Zoo's world renowned Safari Park. Then we cavort on the waters of Fort Lauderdale, commune with Salvador Dali's spirit in Spain and giving tips on how to find and use a bathroom abroad.  We look at a San Diego's family run enterprise which introduced whale watching to the world.  All that and more, as Flagship Cruises celebrates its 110th birthday with record breaking whale sightings up the southern California coast. Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on performance, nature, travel, family and the arts: www.whereiscookie.com 

Getty Center reopens after devastating fires; Getty Villa remains closed

The Getty Center Museum is large -- like its benefactor's appetite for art and beauty. The multi-building
complex is the legacy of industrialist and philanthropist J. Paul Getty, a $1.3 billion endeavor which opened to the public with great fanfare in 1997. It is well known for its architecture, gardens, its free admission, tram to the complex and splendid views overlooking Los Angeles. It's gardens welcome many bird species.

Sculpture is artfully placed throughout the museum complex,
making the grounds as interesting as the indoor exhibits.

GETTY CENTER REOPENS; FIRE RESISTANT ARCHITECTURE  MARKS GETTY BUILDINGS   

FIRE UPDATES WILL APPEAR AS REBUILDING BEGINS, PLANS UNFOLD

BEAUTIFUL GETTY VILLA REMAINS CLOSED INDEFINITELY  AS A RESULT OF THE FIRES; WE'LL FEATURE IT WHEN IT REOPENS

Editor's Note: We took the photos accompanying this story Jan. 6, the day before devastating fires closed both Getty museums.  We are relieved that the fires are at bay and the fire-resistant Getty Center Museum is reopened.  The Getty Villa, although saved, is closed indefinitely. Staffers stayed overnight early in the fire to protect it and while Villa grounds experienced damage, the buildings and priceless collections are safe thanks to steel and metal architecture, grounds irrigation and careful prior clearing of brush near the building's parameter.  We nod to the splendid Villa Museum in this article, and will present a full feature when it reopens in months, even a year.  Pacific Palisades must rebuild it roads, infrastructure and museum access, all damaged in the fires.  Both museums are free with only a parking charge.

 

A subtle, elegant effect from a display
of prisms caught Cookie's eye.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

OIL TYCOON J. Paul Getty was a man of immense appetites, achievements and artistic acumen. He was also a man of vision, who would surely approve of the Getty Center's architecture, "a marvel of anti-fire engineering," as one critic called it. Both indoors and outdoors, its materials, design, construction, operations, and controls are purpose-built for safety. 

Getty made his fortune with savvy investments in the oil trade. This enabled him to collect paintings and sculpture in both the U.S. and the Mediterranean, where he kept a villa in Italy for many years.

Minnesota born, he enjoyed the warmer climate and landscape of southern California, noticing its similarities to the Mediterranean area he loved.  He was drawn to the lost civilizations of Herculaneum and Pompeii.  One villa, mostly buried by the volcanic eruption of Vesuvius, caught the collector's eye and would eventually lead to his legacy, two world class facilities: Getty Center Museum and Getty Villa Museum.

A docent leads a group of tourists in
one of the museum wings, explaining
specific pieces, here a classical sculpture.

THE CENTER Museum is much larger than the Villa. It is in Brentwood, about 11 miles or a half hour's drive from the Pacific Palisades Villa. The Center reopened Jan. 28 after the fires closed it for nearly three weeks. It houses a stunning collection of art from the Middle Ages, Renaissance and modern times. But the architecture and gardens of the buildings are the real stars of this complex, set amid gorgeous gardens with impressive city views. Museum staff thought of everything to enhance a visit: cafes, shady walkways, gorgeous gardens. Interesting gallery tours, changing exhibits and tasteful gift shops await. On warm days, one can borrow a parasol to keep the sun's glare away. 

The museum is user friendly. Amazingly, it is free with only a parking charge.

The gardens at Getty Center Museum are elegant and not
to be missed.  This is one of several, the Central Garden.

LONGTIME residents of the area know the history of the pair of Getty museums began with the opening of the J. Paul Getty Museum in 1954 while Getty was still alive and able to supervise. He originally designed a small museum adjacent to his Pacific Palisades home.  When it quickly outgrew his growing collection, he decided to replicate the villa, creating a larger, permanent home for his treasures.  He died in England in 1976 and the terms of his trust laid out plans for the Getty Center Museum, built to house the massive larger collection of mixed media masterpieces.  Architects from around the world vied for the architectural post and in 1984, following an eighteen-month selection process, architect Richard Meier was chosen to design the Center which opened with fanfare in 1997.  (I was among invited press.)

GETTY ACQUIRED

Bruce Keller enjoys a moment of solitude,
reflecting on the beauty of sculpture, landscape
at Getty Center Museum above Brentwood.

a massive amount of sculpture, pottery, paintings and photographs, using his sharp eye and deep pockets to guide him. The Center and Villa accomplish his wish that his collection would live on and touch and enrich others' lives.
He wanted visitors to experience Greek and Roman art in a setting that would bring the objects to life. The Villa does that.  He also wanted his massive additional collection to stay intact, and be complemented in beautiful sculpture gardens, with landscaping incorporating both plants and water. The Center does that admirably, with drought resistant plants which have a better chance of surviving fire such as the recent one.

THE WORLD'S best architects adapted plans for both the Villa and the Center. 

No expense was spared in the Getty
Villa, a recreation of an ancient
Roman estate in Pompeii. 

For the Villa,  his team borrowed from other nearby villas since the one he admired was mostly destroyed by Vesuvius. Getty's team  designed a gorgeous complex that satisfied Getty's idea of "re-creation." Attention to detail was paramount to the collector. He insisted on accuracy in incorporating details from other ancient homes. A billionaire and once the richest man in the world, he spared no expense.

Christene "Cookie" Meyers
and Bruce Keller by an exhibit
of Van Gogh's famous "Irises."

Sculpture is an appealing part of Getty Center.

WHAT EMERGED is two very different, equally charming spaces. Like the Center, only much smaller, the Villa incorporates charming gardens, fountains, peaceful places for contemplation with plants from the Mediterranean -- fruit trees, flowering shrubs, herbs used by the Romans for cooking and medicine.  

Both facilities house beautifully designed gallery spaces showcasing Getty's stunning collections. The pair take the viewer from Egyptian, Greek and Roman statues to European paintings, drawings, sculpture, illuminated manuscripts, decorative arts, and photography from its beginnings to the present. We toured the two back-to-back in a long, delightful day.  Sadly, this pairing is not possible until the Villa reopens.  May that happen soon as Pacific Palisades "reinvents" itself and rebuilds. Meanwhile, consider a visit to the Center. 
And keep Pacific Palisades, its people and its treasures in your hearts.

More information:  Admission to Getty Center Museum is free but timed-entry reservations are necessary and you'll pay for parking.
getty.edu/visit/center; visitorservices@getty.edu
To follow Getty Villa's reopening plans: getty.edu/visit/villa

We're back on the whale trail, with a look at
magnificent gray whales passing by San Diego
in record numbers of over 20,000. Seeing a
fluke is one of our happiest moments at sea.

ON TAP:  It's a wonderful feeling to see a whale fluke as he dives down for food, or  "blows" as he comes up for air, expelling it through his blow hole.  Did you know that's the genesis of the term "Thar she blows"? from whaling days. Now we happily celebrate the return of the whale after near extinction.  We are thankful to photograph these beautiful, once endangered creatures and are thrilled to be back watching whales with favorite San Diego venues, San Diego's City Cruises under the Hornblower umbrella and San Diego Whale Watch.  Tourists from all over the world visit San Diego for the whales. So that's next week's feature.  Then more water adventures in Fort Lauderdale, a UK train odyssey, tips on bathroom protocol when abroad -- and, importantly, how to find one! Remember to explore, learn and live and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, the arts, performance, nature and more: www.whereiscookie.com 

To book a whale watching cruise in San Diego:

https://www.cityexperiences.com/san-diego/city-cruises/san-diego-whale-dolphin-watch-adventure/

Whale tale: dolphins eclipse migrating grays, as stars of the ocean's show -- plus California fire update, rains and border fire progress

THIS WEEK'S FEATURE: Whale watch! 

PLUS UPDATE as Los Angeles area fires are virtually out! Please find Jan 30 fire news below this story! 

Dolphin bonanza: we happened to be on the water when a pod of 5,000 dolphins hit the coast off
southern California.  This close-up of one of them shows what spectacular creatures they are.

WHALE OF A TALE IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS WHERE DOLPHINS ARE THE MAIN EVENT ON DELIGHTFUL  ADVENTURE

 

Dolphins followed our boats during a delightful series
of whale watching adventures near Ventura and Oxnard.

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

THE MIGRATION of the whale is one of nature's most impressive odysseys. Being on the water to watch them is helping us cope with the emotional trauma of the fires so very near us.

Every year, we passionately track whales. We've seen them on all seven continents. It's the most diverse critter we know and its presence in our lives -- especially this year --makes a huge difference.

Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers enjoyed
a week of whale watching with Island Packers, highly
recommended for lively commentary and lots of sea life.

A delightful fringe benefit of whale watching is the sight of beautiful and playful dolphins. Whale watching is really "whale waiting." Yet in dozens of whale watching trips, we've never failed to spot dolphins, often and before whale sightings. This week on the waters near Oxnard and Ventura, California, we saw whales -- beautiful grays and humpbacks. But the dolphin shows were beyond spectacular.

Dozens of dolphins followed our Island Packers boat.

WE SAW thousands of dolphins, including an enormous pod which thrilled us as they jumped and frolicked on port and starboard sides of the vessels, darting in front of us and behind us, in the churning waters of the wake as well.  A sight to behold which made international news.

TRUTH IS: where there are whales there are usually playful dolphins. They scout out the same food the whales eat and often lead the way for whales to dine, thus making it easier for us to spot them both.

It's true that each year,  gray whales undertake one of the longest migrations of any mammal, traveling 12,000 miles round-trip from their feeding grounds in the Arctic to calve and breed in the Baja lagoons, and the warm waters of Hawaii.  But dolphins hang around.

OUR YEAR started with success in a fabulous trio of Island Packers outings out of Ventura and Oxnard.

The family owned and run operation knows the sea, dolphins, whales and  sailing better than anyone.  Owner Cherryl Connolly's late parents and her brother started two ocean adventures which merged recently to carry on the family tradition.

Channel Islands casts whale magic

A humpback breeches on the southern California coast.

We have the good fortune to live close enough to enjoy sea life expeditions near home each year. We explore both in San Diego and up the coast in Oxnard and Venture, north of Los Angeles. The Feb. 6 column will feature new photos we're taking this weekend off the San Diego coast where 20,000 migrating whales are making their way south, breaking records.

in numbers. 

THE WHALES' remarkable trip is equivalent to traveling three times across the United States from San Francisco, California to Washington D.C. Imagine that. But don't overlook the pleasures of the dolphins.  They're a huge draw for us and thousands of others. For while we don't always see an abundance of whales, we see dolphins every time.

The Hampton Inn in Oxnard is conveniently
located on a lovely marina, with whale watching
nearby, ambiance, a tasty breakfast and views.

Resident whales, dolphins of Oregon

NOW IS prime time for viewing these magnificent creatures: whales and their sidekicks, the dolphins. January through March is when whales migrate along the California coast, traveling mostly southward but also a few coming back north as time progresses. Most whales arrive to Baja’s lagoons during January and February, and by mid-March the majority of the population has reached the lagoons where they mate and calve. We've seen a few "early birds" heading back north in March, so that's always a possibility.

Keller's Risso's dolphin photo with a
comparison beneath of  Risso to human.

Alaska's whales on a cruise

DOLPHINS ARE whales, of course, and so it was a thrill on this trip to see several species, including the more rare "tooth whales," including the Risso's dolphin, named after the man who discovered them and closely related to the pilot whale.  They're a larger, lesser known creature than the other two dolphin species we saw this trip, the common dolphin and bottleneck.

In fact, the size comparison shows Risso's are more than twice as big as an average person.

Most dolphins are about our size or smaller.

One day, a pod of more than 500 "commons" followed our wake, playfully jumping and seeming to enjoy our admiration.  Another day, we saw what a news team estimated to be over 4,000.  A thrill.

The longed for "fluke" of a migrating humpback caught our eye.

ISLAND PACKERS hires terrific naturalists and captains.  One tip for estimating dolphin numbers: Count what you can see and multiply times six or seven. Usually, the number of whales can be more precisely gauged because they have to come up for air and their size makes that visible. Southbound  whales usually travel in pods of two or three so if you see one, you'll likely spot them all.  

We lucky San Diegans may watch the journey close-up, so this time of year, look for us on the water.  Sailor Keller has even piloted our own craft. But it's more fun for him to let someone else do the driving so he be photographer.

The approach to Anacapa is thrilling,  with dolphins in our
wake and seals and birds on the beach. Island Packers
can arrange a hike or camping on the Channel Islands,
or wildlife watching options on their comfy boats.. 

  

CHANNEL ISLANDS National Park is also  worthy of a separate visit. We'll write about this wonderful natural environment down the road.

From our boats, we saw sea lions, seals and island birds, and if one hikes or camps, the encounters with wildlife are even more bountiful.

It's possible to enjoy these beautiful islands in many ways.

We saw backpackers and hikers, drawn to these remote islands and back country for spectacular views of the beaches, canyons and inlets.

But if your time is limited, you'll still in for a treat to simply stay on the boat.  Options when you have more time include kayaking reservations, and special trips for school groups.

  Island Packers does it all.

www.islandpackers.com

                                                                                www.reservationdesk.com › Hampton-Inn › Oxnard

FIRE CONTAINMENT NEARLY COMPLETE; REBUILDING, CLEANUP BEGIN  

Many of the 5,000 firefighters in  Southern
California are being relieved of fire duties 
 as cleanup, rebuilding and recovery begin.  
                            --Photos courtesy L.A. Times & Mercury News

Thursday, Jan. 30, SoCal fires update: Cleanup efforts are underway in the Los Angeles area. There are still fires in Los Angeles County – Eaton, Hughes and Palisades -- but the Border 2 fire near San Diego is virtually extinguished.
All of the major fires from Jan. 2025 are expected to reach 100% containment by week's end. Rains have helped greatly but residents in burn areas are warned to beware of mudslides and possible flooding, the downside of needed moisture. The Getty Center above Brentwood is reopened (see below and major feature posting here Thursday.) Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades remains closed.  Rebuilding and restoring buildings, roads and infrastructure will take years and billions of dollars. Estimated loss is estimated at $250 to $275 billion. The worst fire -- Pacific Palisades -- is at 90 per cent containment with continuing sporadic high winds. The Border 2 Fire near San Diego is also at 90 per cent containment but still active in steep rural terrain. Nearly all evacuation orders are lifted.  The fires are fueled by unusually warm

The Border 2 fire near San Diego
is 97 per cent contained Jan.30.

weather, relentless winds, drought and low humidity. A fire near us in La Jolla erupted and was put out just 2 miles from home.  Our daily coverage began the first day Jan. 7. We will check in on the fires from time to time as rebuilding begins. Here's an earlier fire post:     http://www.whereiscookie.com/2025/01/los-angeles-love-story-from-montana.html

Coming up: Hollywood actor and special effects artist share personal insights into the tragedy.

The beautiful Getty Center was spared during
the recent devastating fires. It will reopen Jan. 28
and we will feature the splendid complex. 

ON TAP: After closing in the wake of the devastating Los Angeles fires, the Getty Center reopened Jan. 28. We're there to celebrate this astonishing architectural complex -- with free admission to beautiful gardens and priceless art. Then we're back with new photos of whales on their record-breaking migration as 20,000 grays pass by Sam Diego enroute from the chilly waters of Alaska to warmer waters south of the Baja. Then on to Spain and the museums of Salvador Dali and Antoni Gaudi. Back in the U.S., we visit New York's Museum of Modern Art, then hike curious caves in Barbados and Bermuda.  Visiting art created by both man and nature is a theme for us, as we hop back and forth across the pond. We return to a favorite city, Barcelona, where we explore a city offering famed art, architecture and a delightful modern tram to the city's top.  Plus a look at a Montana museum devoted to the work of renowned western artist C.M. Russell. Meanwhile, remember to explore, learn and live, and catch us weekly for a fresh spin on travel, performance, nature, art, family and more: www.whereiscookie.com

L.A. love story: Fire update as Montana girl pens Hollywood homage

Two new fires erupted as crews remove tons of debris from Eaton
and Pacific Palisades fire areas, fearing mudslides and more damage
as thousands of tons of debris are swept away in forecast rains. Red
Flag warnings increased even into northern and central California.
 
--FIRE PHOTOS COURTESY AP, Getty Images, MSN

NEW FIRES, INCREASING WINDS, MORE EVACUATIONS: FIRE CONTAINMENT INCHES ALONG, TONS OF DEBRIS CLEARED, CALIFORNIA BRACES FOR RAIN, MUDSLIDES  

The American Red Cross and Project HOPE
are helping thousands of evacuees, first responders
and fire crews. To help with food, hygiene, shelter,
counseling: www.redcross.org; www.projecthope.org

Sunset Boulevard and the Pantages Theatre, built in 1930 as a Vaudeville house, film and performance
venue.  For many years it hosted the Academy Awards. It holds a special place in the hearts of writer Christene Meyers, and her photographer husband, Bruce Keller, whose mother Jean, an art major, left University of Minnesota in 1944 to rent a flat at Hollywood and Vine & design window displays.  Meyers and Keller visit Los Angeles often for theater, movies &"Jeopardy" tapings.  

 
HISTORY AS FIRES SWEEP OVER  AN OLD FRIEND WHO WILL RISE FROM ASHES

As a movie reviewer at The Billings Gazette, the writer spent   weekends
in Los Angeles, where she interviewed hundreds of film stars, directors,
producers, screen writers and designers and covered the Oscars. 

The eerie sight of burned trees with downtown L.A. in the
background  greets homeowners and emergency crews in
Altadena, Pacific Palisades and other areas. L.A. now meets
the threat of mudslides and more damage with rains forecast.
As of Wednesday, more than 12,000 structures are destroyed,
27 are dead, more missing, and 60 square miles are burned.
                                                             --Photo Courtesy Getty Images

Aftermath of the Pacific Palisades fire. "The
"destruction is unbelievable," a friend said today.

Jan 23 fire update: Two new fires erupted north of Los Angeles. Over 100,000 people now have received evacuation orders with another 15,000 receiving evacuation warnings. Volunteers and fire crew are following an emergency order issued yesterday to clear debris ahead of forecast rains. Although rain is badly needed, it creates another risk: Mudslides, erosion  and floods, caused by rubble left by the fires. Hughes fire is at 14 percent containment. Sepulveda fire is nearly extinguished. Containment of the older fires is at 80 -90 per cent for Palisades, Eaton, Kenneth and Hurst fires. The Palisades fire invaded Pacific Palisades, Malibu, and Topanga and Mandeville canyons. Firefighters inched further as the Eaton fire caused destruction in Altadena, Pasadena and Sierra Madre — and is at 89% containment, according to Cal Fire. Damage is expected to surpass $250 billion, which would make these fires the costliest in U.S. history. We grieve devastating loss with dear friends whose childhood homes have been leveled, animals lost, personal memorabilia gone. Getty Center above Brentwood will reopen Jan. 28. But the priceless Getty Villa --while saved -- is closed indefinitely because of hazardous roads and leveled surroundings in the ghost town of Pacific Palisades.  Prolonged drought and renewed Santa Ana winds created possibly the worst wildfires in the country's history. Please keep imperiled Los Angeles in your thoughts and prayers and continue to check here and on Facebook daily. We offer ways people can help: www.redcross.org;

www.projecthope.org

STORY By CHRISTENE MEYERS

PHOTOS By BRUCE KELLER

                                                                                                      and newspaper archives 

I DIDN'T REALIZE how much Los Angeles means to me until the fires. Now I understand.

 

Debbie Reynolds and daughter
Carrie Fisher, interviewed at a
Hollywood awards ceremony.

A new star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, at
  Hollywood and Vine, awaits its a new gold name.
 

IN YEARS of globe trotting, I've spent more time visiting Los Angeles than any other place in the world, with New York, London and Barcelona the runners up.

Makeup wizard and special effcts artist Andy
Schoneberg and his partner and fellow artist
Nicole Michaud, with Cookie and Keller and
Schoneberg's Humphrey Bogart creation. He
has lived in Los Angeles for the past 40 years. 

  ALL TOGETHER I've logged about 7 years in the city -- in visits ranging from 3 days to 2 and 3 weeks. Trips to Disneyland as a young person, a honeymoon trip with late husband Bruce Meyers, five weeks with late husband Bill Jones researching our historical novel partly set in Los Angeles, and at least 10 visits a year during my 25-plus years as a movie critic. I covered the Oscars in the day when newspapers were king and the studios invited select film reviewers for world premiers and interviews. I've strolled the Walk of

Keller's parents were married
in Los Angeles in post-WWII.
Meet William and Jean Keller.

Fame many times, playing tourist, often catching sight of a star. Sometimes they remembered me -- Christopher Reeve and Bill Murray did. I've weaseled my way into Hollywood piano bars to play when the paid pianists took a break. I've sunbathed by the rooftop pool at the historic Hoxton Hotel, which opened in 1924 with star studded fun. 

Looking like a mirage, Echo Mountain House
was a favorite escape for sunshine and fruit groves.
The Pasadena area was called "America's Italy." 
 

MOST PEOPLE don't realize that there was a Los Angeles long before the metropolis we know today sprang from the desert.  L.A. was founded in 1781 by Spanish colonists and Pasadena has long been a popular winter destination for wealthy folks. The gorgeous chaparral and wildflower terrain that has been scorched in at least 8 wildfires reminded J. Paul Getty of his beloved First week's fire coverage, click here

Italy. So much so that he built a lavish museum, Getty Villa, a replica of a luxurious compound destroyed by Vesuvius. There, in a building now closed but safe, his $10 billion collection awaits reopening probably months down the road. 

Bruce Keller and Christene
"Cookie" Meyers at the
Ahmanson Theatre, L.A.

We photographed Getty Villa just before it closed
indefinitely. It is J. Paul Getty's multi-billion-
dollar museum, a showcase for his collection.

 The landscape that attracted the rich for a century is now a charred graveyard. As it burns, its ashes cover the past of a city of remarkable incarnations.

ON ONE sunny afternoon 35 years ago, Bill Jones and I found the remains of Echo Mountain House, built in 1894.  The elegant Swiss inspired chalet was an astronomical observatory and hide-away for Gilded Age partiers.  They dressed to the nines for elegant dinner-dance parties and arrived by cable railway. 

When the regular pianist takes a break, Cookie
often charms herself into a piano bar to play
a few sets, here at the Omni Lounge in L.A.

IN NEARBY HOLLYWOOD,  I interviewed Debbie Reynolds and her daughter, Carrie Fisher, Shirley MacLaine, Jack Nicholson, Robert Redford, Sally Field, Christopher Reeve, Robert DeNiro, Meryl Streep, Dolly Parton, Liza Minnelli, Fred Astaire and many others. We stayed in posh hotels: 
Chateau Marmont, The Beverly Hills and Beverly Wilshire, the stately Roosevelt, where Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks hung out.  

Walt Disney Concert Hall hosts world class
 musicians and conductors and is a regular player
 in Cookie's world of theater and lively arts.

Bruce Keller and his mom, Jean
 Keller, sailed the harbors of
Long Beach, Oceanside, etc.

WITH BRUCE Keller (aka "Bruce the Second,") I spend weekends 90 miles north of our San Diego home in L.A.  It is beloved by Keller because his mother came to the city as a young college arts student on spring break from University of Minnesota.  She never left.

 For the past 18 years, we've watched fabulous opera and thrilled to Gustavo Dudamel's baton conducting the L.A. philharmonic at beautiful Walt Disney Concert Hall. We see plays at the Ahmanson, Mark Taper and Kirk Douglas theaters. We've been to a half-dozen "Jeopardy" tapings and spent time with the late Alex Trebek. We visit many friends, including Wyoming born Andy Schoenberg, a well known makeup artist and old pal, and Keller's oldest friend, Bob Hulbert. He and his wife Sue host us for musical gatherings where we sing show tunes and celebrate a long friendship. I'm the only "non-native" as Bruce, Bob and Sue are all southern Californians with long ties to Los Angeles.

Keller took this night photo of the
Pantages on our most recent visit.

READING OF the fires is like hearing an old friend has a terminal illness. I pray to my agnostic gods that this city beloved by me, Keller and millions of others will rebound quickly, rising from the ashes to reinvent itself once again. As it does -- and as soon as possible -- we'll be back. For the show must go on.

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Marielle Young as Luna and Jin Park as Jane
forge a friendship in their mutual loneliness.

BEST BET: If you love serious theater, with welcome comic relief, head for North Coast Repertory Theatre for "The Heart Sellers." It's a play for play goers, with a perfect theatrical triumvirate. New Yorker Kat Yen's deft direction thoughtfully develops Lloyd Suh's clever script, delivered by two splendid actors with delightful chemistry. The theme is integration-- two wives uprooted from their cultures to support their husbands' education and careers in an unnamed U.S. city. Playwright Suh created two endearing characters in this subtle and sometimes raucous  production. They have just met and are learning to trust one another. Marielle Young plays Luna, a gregarious Filipina woman, endowing her character with brashness and tender enthusiasm. Playing her reluctant Korean new friend Jane is Jin Park who gives her character just the right balance of reserve and delight.  Through two capable actors, a touching friendship develops. When Luna sings "Top of the World," that sweet Carpenters' song, we take  an emotional ride with her. It's a play of satisfying depth and subtlety with welcome moments of slapstick and lightness.

It takes great talent to pull off a two- person show which never fails to engage and sustain us. 
The collaboration of writer, director and actors opens the year at the Rep with a five-star show on an eye-catching set.

northcoastrep.org or call for tickets, call 858-481-1055

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Bruce Keller and Christene "Cookie" Meyers on the trail
of dolphins and whales, keeping safe distance from the fires.
 Find some fire relief next week in southern California.

ON TAP: Concerned about the tragic fires, worried about the safety of our many friends in Los Angeles and the havoc and loss of the terrible fires, we are thankful for progress on containment, and for our safety in San Diego. Now, we travel north of the city to romp with the whales. They're migrating from the north to the warm waters of the Baja and we're on their trail.  Meanwhile, keep the people and critters of Los Angeles in your hearts and minds, remembering to explore, learn, live and be kind, generous and helpful. Catch us weekly for stories on performance, nature, travel and -- sometimes -- breaking news, good or bad: www.whereiscookie.com